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K2: Some background and History 乔戈里峰的历史背景 The local name of K2 is Chogori, which in Balti language means the king of Mountains. This name is little known Outside of Pakistan. It is, therefore, desiRable that - K2 be used. K2在当地巴拉提土语的名字是“乔戈里”，意思是“群山之王”。这个名字在巴基斯坦国土之外极少为世人所知。因此，K2就成了理所当然的名字了。 
K2 as seen from Concordia 从肯考迪娅峰眺望乔戈里峰 K2 has variously been described as the "awesome", "killer" and "savage" Mountain. This is because of its massiveness in size and the numerous unsuccessful attempts made on it by various expeditions, including many American expeditions, who have made quite a few unsuccessful attempts. 乔戈里峰在不同的时间里曾被描述成“令人敬畏的”“杀手”和“野蛮之峰”。这是由于它高大魁伟的山姿，也由于包括美国登山队在内的许多登山队在乔戈里峰上都历经了无数次失败的攀登尝试。 K2 is a rocky Mountain up to 6000 meters, beyond which it becomes an ocean of snow. The K2 peak is situated on the Pak-China border in the mighty Karakoram range. The traditional route to its base CAMP goes from Skardu, which is linked with Islamabad by a good road. From Skardu the route goes via Shigar-Dassu-Askole up to Concordia over the Baltoro glacier. The exaCT height of the peak is 8,611 meters/28,251 ft. 乔戈里峰直到海拔6000米的地方都是岩石峰体，在这范围之上覆盖着一望无际的冰雪。乔戈里顶峰处于雄伟的喀喇昆仑山脉的中巴边境上。伊斯兰堡和斯卡都（巴基斯坦巴尔蒂斯坦首府）之间有条路况良好的大路相连接，因此通往大本营的传统路线都是从斯卡都起程的。从斯卡都出发，通过施迦--达苏--阿斯科尔直到巴尔托洛冰川上的肯考迪娅峰。乔戈里顶峰的确切海拔高度是8,611米（28,251英尺）。 It was in 1856, when the British were enforcing their control over India, provoking the 1857-War-of-lndependence, that a young Lieutenant of the Royal Engineers, T.G. Montgomerie, was quietly busy in surveying the Mountains of Kashmir. During this survey he saw, in the far distance, a tall and conspicuous Mountain in the direCTion of the Karakorams and immediately named it K1 (K stands for Karakorams). Later on, it turned out to be the beautiful Mountain of Hushe valley in Khaplu area of Baltistan, called Masherbrum by locals. He also saw another tall and dominating summit behind K1 and named it K2, which turned out to be "Chogori". The name K2, however, still stands. 1856年，正当英国加强对印度的控制而引起了印度1857年独立战争的时候，一个年轻的英国皇家工兵陆军中尉T.G. 蒙特哥摩利正悄悄忙于勘察克什米尔境内的山峰。在他的勘察当中，他发现在遥远之处，有一座高大显著的山峰朝喀喇昆仑山脉地区方向屹立着，他立即将其命名为“K1”（K代表喀喇昆仑山脉）。之后，它被证明是巴拉提斯坦卡布鲁地区哈什山谷里一座美丽的山峰，当地土语称之为“马舒布鲁木峰”。他也看见了另一座高峰高耸在马舒布鲁木峰（K1）后面，并将之命名为“K2”，之后证明这就是“乔戈里峰”。然而，“K2”这个名字仍在使用。 Lieutenant Montgomerie was a good surveyor. He was the person who planned and organized the survey of Kashmir. He was also an unofficial political adviser to Gulab Singh, the then Maharaja of Kashmir. After Gulab Singhs death in 1857, Montgomerie continued his survey work as he carried the same influence with Maharaja Ranjit Singh, the successor of Gulab Singh. Montgomerie trained many locals in surveying. His students did good reconnaissance work in remote areas forbidden to foreigners because of local suspicions. A famous but unfortunate student of his was Muhammad Hameed. 蒙特哥摩利中尉是个不错的测量员。他策划组织勘察了克什米尔。他也是当时在位的克什米尔王公古拉·辛格的非官方政治顾问。1857年古拉·辛格王公驾崩后，由于蒙特哥摩利中尉具有和王公继承人马哈拉加·兰吉特?辛格一样的影响力，他得以继续他的勘察工作。蒙特哥摩利中尉还培训了许多当地测量员。因为当地人的猜忌，他的学生在遥远偏僻、禁止外国人进入的地区进行了不错的勘察工作。他有个著名但不幸的学生就是默罕麦德·哈米德。 In 1860, Captain Henry Haversham Godwin-Austen, of the Survey of India, went to the Baltistan area and surveyed the famous Shigar and Saltoro valleys. This greatly contributed to the knowledge of the area. He was an officer in the 24th Foot Battalion, later the South Wales Borderers, and had also served in the Second Anglo- Burmese War in 1852. Earlier, he had joined Montgomerie at a survey station in Kashmir in 1857. He also surveyed the Kajnag range in southern Kashmir and was the first to put Gulmarg on the map. In 1858-59, he surveyed eastern Kashmir including Jammu. In 1861, he started from Skardu and entered Braldu valley from Skoro-La (5,043m). He then climbed and surveyed the Chogo-lungma, Kero Lungma, Biafo and Panmah glaciers. It was from Kero Lungma that Godwin-Austen climbed the Nushik pass (4,990m/1 6,371 ft) and is stated to have entered the 53-km-long Hispar glacier. He was perhaps the first European to reach it. He, however, did not survey it. He was considered as one of the greatest Mountaineers of the day, had great power of endurance and was immensely brave. It is a myth that the K2 peak, which was erroneously called Godwin-Austen peak, was discovered by him. It is, however, a faCT that he explored the gateway to K2 (the Baltoro glacier), along with famous glaciers including Godwin-Austen glacier. This was indeed his outstanding contribution to the geography of the area. 1860年，印度测量部门亨利·哈佛沙姆·戈德温-奥斯仃队长到巴拉提斯坦地区对著名的施迦和萨尔托洛山谷进行勘察。这对了解这个地区具有极大的贡献。他是第24步兵营的军官，之后居住在南威尔士边境地区(即威尔士南部和英格兰接壤边境)，他也曾在1852年第二次英缅战争中服过役。早在1857年，他曾加入到蒙特哥摩利中尉在克什米尔的勘察站。他也曾勘察过克什米尔南部的卡吉纳山脉，并首次将古尔马格峰画在地图上。1858年至1859年，他对包括查谟在内的克什米尔东部地区进行勘察。1861年，他从斯卡都出发，从海拔5,043米的斯科罗拉峰进入巴拉尔度山谷。然后他爬上乔戈-兰马，科罗兰马，比亚弗和潘马等冰川进行勘测。就是从科罗兰马冰川戈德温-奥斯仃爬上了海拔4,990米（16,371英尺）的努什克山口，据说还曾进入了长达53公里的希斯巴冰川。他很可能就是到达这一冰川的首位欧洲人。然而他并没有对这一冰川进行勘测。他具有强大的忍耐力和巨大的胆识，被誉为当时最伟大的登山家登山家之一。被错误称为戈德温-奥斯仃峰的乔戈里峰是他发现的，这真是荒诞的说法。然而事实上，他探测到了通往乔戈里峰的门户—巴尔托洛冰川，和其他包括戈德温-奥斯仃冰川在内的一些著名冰川。 Another famous Explorer of the area was Francis Younghusband (later knighted), a noted soldier and thrill-seeker. Showing his courage and tenacity in 1887, he CROSSed the Gobi desert from Peking and entered India by CROSSing Mustagh pass. It was during this journey that he saw K2. In this way he was the first European to CROSS Mustagh pass. He was also the first European to set eyes on K2 from the northern side. His guide on this inward journey was a former resident of Askole village, situated at the start of Baltoro glacier, who had been living on the other side of the Mountain for a very long time. When he entered the village of Askole with his guide, Younghusband was extended due courtesies. His guide was, however, looked down upon because he had shown a foreigner the possible route of invasion. Subsequently in 1903-4, Sir Francis Younghusband became the head of the famous mission to Tibet. 另一个后来被授予爵位的探险家法兰西斯·扬哈斯本，是个著名的士兵和惊险小说迷。1887年，他显示了他的勇气和固执，从北京出发穿越了戈壁沙漠，从马兹他山口进入印度。就在旅途中，他首次见到了乔戈里峰。他是以这种方式穿越马兹他山口的首位欧洲人，也是首位从北面看到乔戈里峰的欧洲人。他返程的向导以前曾住在位于巴尔托洛冰川起点处的阿斯科尔村庄，在很长时间里曾一直住在山的另一边。当他和向导进入阿斯科尔村庄时，扬哈斯本被当地村民致以充分的礼节。然而他的向导则被蔑视，因为他已向外国人指出了可能的入侵路线。随后在1903至1904年，法兰西斯·扬哈斯本爵士成为了著名的驻藏代表团首脑。 It was probably for the first time in 1902 that an organized expedition of Oscar J.L. Eckenstein traveled to K-2 from Baltoro glacier. The expedition was without any guide. Its aim was to explore approaches to the Mountain and possibly have a try on the peak. It was, however, harsh weather which preVENTed it from attempting the peak. The party however colleCTed useful information about the upper Godwin-Austen glacier which was used as a stepping stone by expeditions in later years. Two members of the expedition - one a Swiss by the name of Dr. Jules Jacot Guillarmot and the other an Austrian by the name of Dr. V. Wesseley - succeeded in reaching 6523 meters (21,400ft) on the north-eastern ridge of K-2. The party also ascended Skyang La (6150 meters) to ascertain climbing possibilities of Skyang Kangri peak (7544 meters). Eckenstein was the first Mountaineer who applied the principles of engineering to Mountaineering and its equipment in Pakistan. 1902年，奥斯卡·J.L.艾肯斯坦率领的一个有组织的探险队可能是第一次从巴尔托洛冰川向乔戈里峰进发的。探险队没有雇佣任何向导。它的目标就是勘探出通往乔戈里峰的途径，可能还要尝试登顶。然而，恶劣的气候使得探险队无法尝试登顶，他们却收集到了关于戈德温-奥斯仃冰川地表层的有用信息，这些信息在随后几年里被探险队当作跳板加以使用。探险队有两位队员—瑞士人朱利斯·加科特·加勒莫特博士和奥地利人V.威斯利博士成功抵达乔戈里峰东北山脊海拔6523米（21,400英尺）的地方。探险队还攀登了海拔6150米的斯开昂拉峰以确定攀登海拔7544米的斯开昂堪格里峰的可能性。艾肯斯坦是在巴基斯坦把工程学原理运用到登山运动和装备上的首位登山家登山家。 | 
发表于 2007-8-5 15:21
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